![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I was surprised at how out of adjustment the left twine finger was. I adjusted the separation between the twine finger and the needle, one thirty-second of an inch, and then set them as required. They were not even close with each other, and the left one appeared to be about half and inch out of adjustment. I turned over the baler by hand, tripping the knotter, and checking the twine fingers as per the instructions in the manual. Mine says that a force of 5 to 10 lbs is proper for pulling the wiper arm ledge across the heel of the billhook. A manual would tell you how much actual pull thru pressure is required. Since you have one knotter working OK, you should be seeing a difference between the contact pressures before you begin this adjustment. Run it thru by hand a few times withou twine in the rig until you get it right. That allows you to twist the arm upwards towards the billhook, in the contact area, without screwing it up in other areas. I use two Crescent wrenches: one on the wiper arm itself and one on the first wrench at 90 degrees to it. You can do it in place by making gradual adjustments. Contact should be firm but not excessive. That simply means you need to bend the arm into position. The wiper arm needs to be "modeled" so that it actually makes hard contact with the billhook heel. Rust pits on the billhook mean that the wiper arm (which scrapes the completed knot off the billhook) is not making contact with it. ![]()
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